Butler

Brides of Yester-Year

Dress of Helen Lund Butler, 1886

Where the previous dress (Thompson, 1875) was unassuming, this dress is luxurious and showy. Its outstanding feature is its brilliant copper color. Aniline dyes, which had recently been developed, allowed fabrics to be dyed in deep rich colors previously not available. The fabric is a soft but very heavy silk satin, which drapes beautifully. You can see the lovely draping in the swag that begins on the left front of the skirt at the upper thigh, wraps around the back in a bustle, and ends on the right front in a deep swag at the right knee. In another unusual touch, the train of the skirt puddles at the right side, rather than flowing from the center back.

Typical of the time, the snug-fitting top has a boned bodice, ending in a point at center front. A small gathered peplum decorates the back of the jacket. Five dramatic beaded rosettes embellish the dress - three marching down the center front of the skirt, and two others on either side of the front bodice. These rosettes were most likely purchased as is and simply sewn in place by the dressmaker. The buttons down the center front of the bodice, and the small beads edging the stand-up collar are made of the same material. These beads and buttons are very lightweight; they may be jet, which was very much in fashion at this time and is described as a very lightweight material, but we are not certain of this.

Also of interest on this lavish gown is the small, nearly invisible pocket sewn into the front seam on the lower left side of the bodice. This small pocket would have held a "lay down" - a tiny, flat glass bottle, which the owner would have filled with her favorite cologne.

This is an altogether sumptuous gown!

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